Author Archives: Christine

Mirage on the Black Rock Desert

It is nearly quiet here in my edge-of-town Reno garden. There is a soft, consistent, white traffic sound, like a stream flowing hidden among trees, a waterfall behind a knoll of rock, an off-trail Sierra lakeside with afternoon wind moving … Continue reading

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Burning Man 2012 – before the burn

Burning Man is transitioning – change is afoot. Last year, for the first time ever, the 50,000 allocated tickets sold out. The results last year were desperate would-be burners who had always waited til just before the event to plonk … Continue reading

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Garden Dreams

I used to dream about worms. If that sounds odd to you, you are probably not a composter. My dreams were inspired by piles of leaves, reclaimed from curbs, moistened by a foot and a half of snow which soaked … Continue reading

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Colors of Guatemala

Quetzal tail feathers photographed in Maya history museum, village of Chajul, Ixil Triangle, Department of Quiché The Resplendent Quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno) is emblematic of Guatemala – it is the name of Guatemala’s currency and its national bird. And yes, it … Continue reading

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Cemeteries in Guatemala

I’ve always had a bit of a fascination for cemeteries because they hold intriguing clues to the culture and history of an area. And perhaps I just enjoy walking with ghosts. Los cementerios guatemaltecos promised to be of particular interest … Continue reading

Posted in *mostly photos*, Cemeteries, Guatemala | 9 Comments

Guatemalan Food part 2 – Changes Over Time

I wrote a first installment on food at the end of my first full day in Guatemala. This second installment is a retrospective. Fifty years ago, the foods that were available in Guatemala were highly location specific. Around Lago Atitalan, … Continue reading

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Six and half weeks in Guatemala

photo above from Uspantán Traveling with a fixed plan doesn’t work so well for me. There is a poor psychology to the whole thing as all too often what is expected simply changes. When things don’t go as they are … Continue reading

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Santa Cruz del Quiché to Guate

There are ‘rules’ for safe travel in Central America and I am about to be challenged by several of them. I am in Quiché, and flying out of Guatemala City in a couple of days. The conservative approach might be … Continue reading

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Ixil Region – Acul, Xexuxcap, Xexocom

The morning in Nebaj, Guatemala, started with light rain. A friend had organized a couple of young boys to guide me on my planned walk, but truly I just wanted this day to be a solitary one – one when … Continue reading

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Chajul – Children, Cemetery and Comedor Cristina

Often the village cemetery is up on one of the hills above the town. In Chajul, my random exploration of the hillside streets to the north of town neither led to the cemetery, nor revealed a view of it. My … Continue reading

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Chajul walkabout

Apart from the obvious interest of the market day, what I enjoyed most in my visit to Chajul was the simple, quiet pleasure of wandering around this lightly visited village, without a map or really much idea of what I … Continue reading

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Market Day in Chajul

It is market day in San Gaspar Chajul, Guatemala. In many rural areas, the local market days rotate among a few of the more prominent villages in the region. In the Ixil Triangle region of Guatemala, Nebaj is the largest … Continue reading

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Nebaj – somewhere, in the middle of nowhere

Nebaj. The name rings magical. This town of 35,000 tucked into a lush mountain valley in the highlands of Guatemala is the political center of the Ixil Triangle region. The Ixil (pronounced Ish-il) Maya live here and in the nearly … Continue reading

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Uspantán to el Entronque de Nebaj

Mud bricks, tile roofs, dividing fences made of piled wood for the cooking fire. Pigs tethered between close-set houses. Fences of vertical sticks tied together with twine. Men in dark clothing with dark faces beneath pale straw cowboy hats. If … Continue reading

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Uspantán

It is mid-afternoon. The whole day til now has been spent traveling and it is time to wander around this quite isolated village of 3500 where the only languages are Spanish and Q’eqchi Maya. My two goals are to get … Continue reading

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