Burning Man 2012

Nobody knew what to expect this year, but really one never does. That, in fact, is precisely what I most love about Burning Man, and what keeps me coming back to the dust and harshness of the Black Rock Playa.

2012 brought a new participant limit of 60,900, up from 50,000. We anticipated, then, a longer more difficult ingress, a crowded city and especially a more difficult Exodus. But so many people expected, and probably dreaded, exactly this that none of it ended up being the reality. The peak population of the city, as reported on the playa, was a bit under 54,000 on Friday. Official word after the event states that there were 52,300 participants.

After the well publicized initial difficulties of acquiring tickets, a great many tickets were advertised for sale over the last few weeks before the event. Instead of commanding a premium price, last minute tickets were being sold below their face value. Scalping and hoarding was not rewarded. Continue reading

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Costume Art at Burning Man

costume img_0115 What is an appropriate Burning Man costume? There are as many answers to that as there are participants. Everything, anything. Or nothing.

Costuming ranges from the gothic grunge of the DPW (Dept of Public Works) and the Death Guild, to the furry leggings and hot pants of the sparkle ponies, to the tie dyed rainbows of the aging hippies, to nightgowns and fluffy tutus set off by hairy legs and chests, to naked bodies decorated with body paint and fishnet. Anything you can imagine will be a part of the parade of creative craziness of Burning Man clothing. Continue reading

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The Burning Man 2012 Ticket Drama Continues

Ten days, now, before the gates to Black Rock City open and I begin to wonder how many of the BLM permitted 60,900 will actually be at Burning Man this year. How many of those once precious tickets will lie unused, ending up in scrapbooks or burnt in anger?

Every hopeful burner I know, who had not meanwhile made other plans, has a ticket now. Ebay has 275 listings, many for multiple tickets. Eplaya has pages of tickets offered – 130 new listings August 16th, mostly for two tickets. And prices continue to fall. That once valuable, coveted scrap of light cardboard is fast becoming worth less than anyone could have imagined a few months back when the ticket lottery left more than half of the hopefuls hopeless, when the second open sale was cancelled, when the scalpers and hoarders had the upper hand.

I was lucky. Lucky first to receive my two tickets in the lottery. One was for my son who wanted to go to his first burn. But with a new job this year, as the post-lottery months crept by, it was looking more and more doubtful that this would be the right timing for him. In May we decided to pass this ticket on. I was lucky then to make a good friend so happy.

And now I feel so very lucky again, to not be one of these desperate people who never imagined that they were holding a scrap of expensive paper which would have so little value.

The advice I gave a friend desperate til so recently for a ticket proved exactly right – prepare as though you will be going. The ticket problem will sort out as plans so often change as the event gets closer.

Between airfares and other logistics, it is too late now for most to be starting the process. Ticket availability is no longer the problem, but ending up stuck with a ticket no one wants to buy may well be.

face on the playa img_0459

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Mirage on the Black Rock Desert

It is nearly quiet here in my edge-of-town Reno garden. There is a soft, consistent, white traffic sound, like a stream flowing hidden among trees, a waterfall behind a knoll of rock, an off-trail Sierra lakeside with afternoon wind moving the tops of the trees. It is never quiet in the way of the desert.

The Black Rock playa, most of the time, is quiet in a manner so dense one can taste it, cut it with a butter knife. No background sounds of wind in the treetops, no muffled music of flowing water.

But there is a small corner of the desert which begins, now, to change – a corner where a city will soon rise. Teams of city builders are gathering, working at the ranch north of Gerlach Nevada, preparing for the August 1st start of on-playa activity.

First the survey crew will lay down the outline of the city – the position of the man, the streets, the perimeter. Then the perimeter fence will be built, followed by setup of the infrastructure (commissary, Dept of Public Works, etc) then Center Camp will begin to rise in the desert. The Temple crew starts their construction, the largest art projects begin to appear. The quiet of the desert, in this one little corner, gradually changes.

By Sunday August 26th, the heart of Black Rock City will light this little bit of playa, the dense desert silence will have ebbed away. Over the ensuing week the city will be populated, will reach its zenith. The sky will fill with flames, the ground will vibrate. And then, as suddenly as it came, this 21st century desert mirage will melt away.

Black Rock City Nevada, will become a temporary ghost town, then will vanish altogether. Like a gold-rush boom town, quickly built, burnt, then reabsorbed into the quiet, vast desert. With a few small differences – this ghost town is cyclic. Like some but not all ghost towns, it disappears entirely, but like no other, it returns the following year.

And it is very nearly time for the builders to begin their work on the playa.

Read John Curley’s first hand reports from the playa describing the start of Black Rock City 2012 and the building of the perimeter fence.

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Burning Man 2012 – before the burn

Burning Man is transitioning – change is afoot. Last year, for the first time ever, the 50,000 allocated tickets sold out. The results last year were desperate would-be burners who had always waited til just before the event to plonk down so much cash, and a new scalping of tickets.

The effects on the ticket availability for 2012 has been even more dramatic. Continue reading

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Garden Dreams

I used to dream about worms. If that sounds odd to you, you are probably not a composter.

My dreams were inspired by piles of leaves, reclaimed from curbs, moistened by a foot and a half of snow which soaked in as it melted, full of earthworms busy at the work of breaking down my layered leaves to dark, nurturing humus. When I turned these leaves with a pitchfork, worms were everywhere. So I used to dream of worms, excited about what they meant to my garden. Continue reading

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Colors of Guatemala

Quetzal tail feathers photographed in Maya history museum, village of Chajul, Ixil Triangle, Department of Quiché

The Resplendent Quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno) is emblematic of Guatemala – it is the name of Guatemala’s currency and its national bird. And yes, it is brightly colored. The mostly green body has iridescence in tones of green, gold, blue and violet, and it bears a prominent red mark on its breast. The tail feathers are an iridescent green and are particularly long and showy on the male during breeding season.

[Image at right from internet, photographer unknown]

Most likely you won’t see one though there is some chance, during the misty morning feeding time, in the cloud forest, if you get up early and are led to just the right spot. You just might. The species is found only from southern Mexico through to western Panama, though related species occur further east in Panama and in South America.

Where you will be sure to see it in Guatemala is on the flag, in the carvings decorating the temples of the Maya, painted into murals depicting indigenous legends and woven into textiles. You may also recognize it in the many ways that Guatemala embraces color. Continue reading

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Cemeteries in Guatemala

photo in post header from Uspantán
below from Chichicastenango

I’ve always had a bit of a fascination for cemeteries because they hold intriguing clues to the culture and history of an area. And perhaps I just enjoy walking with ghosts. Los cementerios guatemaltecos promised to be of particular interest as they share the vibrant use of color seen elsewhere in the country – in the traditional dress (traje) of the indigenous Maya and in the deep pastels painted on the houses of the living. And if you have looked at photos of Guatemala, you might have already seen the iconic photos of the cemetery in Chichicastenango. Continue reading

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Guatemalan Food part 2 – Changes Over Time

Fruit Vendor, Sacapulas, Quiché Department

I wrote a first installment on food at the end of my first full day in Guatemala. This second installment is a retrospective.

Fifty years ago, the foods that were available in Guatemala were highly location specific. Around Lago Atitalan, the soil is poor and there were very few choices. The diet of the Maya living in the lakeside villages was largely limited to the following: Continue reading

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Six and half weeks in Guatemala

photo above from Uspantán

[coming: Antigua, Rio Dulce and Livingston, Flores and Tikal, Chichicastenango, Lake Atitlan, Semuc Champey, Uspantán, Nebaj (Acul, Chajul), Santa Cruz del Quiché]

Map of Guatemala

Traveling with a fixed plan doesn’t work so well for me. There is a poor psychology to the whole thing as all too often what is expected simply changes. When things don’t go as they are ‘supposed to’, the result is stress. There are always delays, and no-shows, and lost reservations. Expectations are not met, and it is just that – the presence of expectations – which trips me up.

So instead, as much as possible, I like to travel with an open slate, and an open mind. Little needs to hinge rigidly on prior events and so surprises are generally welcome.

This trip began with a big surprise which came close to being a most unwelcome one. Continue reading

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Santa Cruz del Quiché to Guate

There are ‘rules’ for safe travel in Central America and I am about to be challenged by several of them. I am in Quiché, and flying out of Guatemala City in a couple of days. The conservative approach might be to head for the supposed safety of Antigua and book a tourist shuttle directly to the airport for the morning of my departure. Or I could travel to Guate the day before and stay somewhere near the airport. But I am happy and entertained here in Quiché and want to spend all my remaining time here. So I stay, Continue reading

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Nebaj – somewhere, in the middle of nowhere

Nebaj. The name rings magical. This town of 35,000 tucked into a lush mountain valley in the highlands of Guatemala is the political center of the Ixil Triangle region. The Ixil (pronounced Ish-il) Maya live here and in the nearly 100 villages surrounding. Nowhere else is the Ixil language spoken other than in these mountain villages; the traditions hold fast – beautiful textiles, strong family and community ties. Continue reading

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Uspantán to el Entronque de Nebaj

Mud bricks, tile roofs, dividing fences made of piled wood for the cooking fire. Pigs tethered between close-set houses. Fences of vertical sticks tied together with twine. Men in dark clothing with dark faces beneath pale straw cowboy hats. If they wear white hats, they must be the ‘good guys’.

Pickup trucks with wire frames, open air and cold local transport. Full of faces, people standing, holding onto the frame as the truck careens around corners.

Fields of maize climb the mouths of ravines; in the open spaces rich, dark, tilled soil. Cloud forest rims the fields, mist coming right down to the field edges. Are there Quetzales hiding in those trees?

The van driving in front of ours is full. Six men and boys ride on top, three more hang off the rear ladder. I am warm and safe inside. It is good being built small though even so my legs are much longer than the guatemaltecans beside me. But basically I fit comfortably.

We drive the packed dirt of the mountainside above a chasm of a valley. It is a dramatically beautiful terrain. Villages come and go, just houses hugging the road, above and below. Beyond the houses the mountain drops sheerly away. Tiny tiendas all with the same limited assortment of necessaries. Saddled horse tethered to a tree, grazes and waits. Horses are the most useful form of transport to and from these fields.

Far across the valley a large slip bisects a road which looks like ours must from a distance – clinging precariously to the mountainside. This is the nature of the road through the Cuchumatanes linking Uspantán and Sacapulas.

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Uspantán

It is mid-afternoon. The whole day til now has been spent traveling and it is time to wander around this quite isolated village of 3500 where the only languages are Spanish and Q’eqchi Maya.

My two goals are to get a feel for the town and to cash a traveler’s check. One proves to be easier than the other. Continue reading

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Heading for Uspantán

When I was planning this trip from home, the area I found most intriguing was a region little visited by tourists – the Ixil Triangle (Nebal-Chajul-Cotzal), and the region surrounding – where indigenous culture is still very much alive; an area in the center of the country, high in los Montañas Cuchumatanes. Continue reading

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