You are only a virgin once

Emotional Baggage art installation at Center Camp 2006

Each year at Burning Man is different. Not only is the event ever changing, but we bring many things with us to the playa – enthusiasm, excitement and readiness, as well our personal issues.

Some years seem better than others, and after looking objectively at Burning Man 2010, I know just how much one’s head space affects that perception. 2010 had far more to offer than I felt at the time.

One year that is almost certain to be wonderful and totally full of amazement is your first year in Black Rock City. How can it not be? It will be like nothing you have ever done before.

This is the story of my virgin year at Burning Man. One thing that I really see now in this account, written immediately after my first burn, was just how large a role my default life had in the story.  When you make that first drive, you are still you without Burning Man.  After – well everyone is different.

Whether this was the ‘best’ year in an objective sense, I don’t know, but subjectively, without a doubt, it was.
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ticket ticket who’s got their ticket

Getting a ticket for Burning Man 2011 has been a much less straightforward process than in previous years. First the initial day of sales was a monumental mess. Then in late July ticket sales were cut off.

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staying (too) connected – internet at burning man

It just seems to follow you everywhere, doesn’t it?

And while I kind of like knowing that I can communicate if I really need to, there is something immensely freeing in how you live when your usual connectivity is severed. You don’t check email (or facebook or shudder twitter), your eyes and brain are not hooked into something far removed from your present, you are not displaced from observing and participating in the actual time and place that you are.

This is especially true for Burning Man where there is already so much happening around you. And for such a brief time. Do you really want to live through google and a computer screen when you are in Black Rock City? Continue reading

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Burning Man 2010

Impressions of a specific year at Burning Man are bound to be intensely personal. Was a certain year the best ever or much less than that? How much of what one remembers as good, and as less so, is determined by your own state of mind?

I think that, overall, by 2010 I had just reached a point where there was too much sameness about it all. My enthusiasm was muted, the gob-smacked wonder had passed. Though I would rank a couple of other years above 2010 for the quality of the art, the more I have gone back and looked at what was there, the more I see how my dim, dusty memories truly had been affected by my rather burnt out state of mind.  There was some wonderful stuff in 2010 after all.

Though we did not have these numbers at the time, it turns out that the event population numbers went over 50,000 for the first time peaking at 51,454. This was an increase of more than 15% from the year before. As the population grows, the city becomes more dense and complex. There is simply far too much to see. It becomes ever more difficult to feel that one can get to even the highlights in the short week of the event.

Considering that construction and setup of art installations is often ongoing throughout much of that week, and that tear down begins before the event ends, seeing and experiencing the art is truly a challenge. Many of the most interesting pieces are out in Deep Playa, a very large expanse which can be unforgivingly hot and exposed in the mid-day, and with a surface which will be often too soft for a bike. There is art throughout the main playa surrounding The Man and there are installations in all of the plazas, and at Center Camp. When I later read on the organization website what I might have seen, I wonder whether I got to even a twentieth of what was out there.

Then there are the residential streets with theme camps, and cafes and music venues, and play areas. Creativity unending. The larger the city, the more impossible the task of seeing much at all beyond your own neighborhood and along whatever routes you choose for travel.

The 'waitress' at the Daisy Diner primps before opening for lunch

Black Rock City Welcomes you to the Friendliest Concentration Camp on the Playa, Barbie Death Camp and Wine Bistro – We put the Barbie into Bar-B-Que.


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Dust on the Playa

In the buildup to Burning Man, there are things one anticipates with joy and others one does not. The certainty of dust storms is not high on the ‘joy list’. Worse is the certainty that some of those dust storms will occur when the afternoon heat makes hiding out in a cramped vehicle incredibly unpleasant – claustrophobic and dripping with sweat. Worst of all is the knowledge that sometimes one will be out in Deep Playa with little textile covering and having left goggles and facemask back in camp.

Camp?  Oh yes, hey camp camp, where are you?!?  In a full on dust storm, frame of reference vanishes.  Continue reading

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Black Rock City – Themes and City Structure

As a way of making each year unique, at the end of each year’s event the theme for the next year is announced. Having a concept gives the artists a creative focus, and starts them thinking about their next year’s project.

10 story steel skyscraper: American Dream 2008

In such a huge, potentially chaotic event it does help to have a unifying concept, and I do appreciate the art installations  that are truly connected to the theme.  Sometimes that connection seems a bit forced,  more like some vague rationalization of how the artists conception is theme related.

The theme for 2011 is Rites of Passage.
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The Art of Burning Man (part 1)

What is Burning Man is a question I hear often. After stumbling around looking for a way to gather the disparate threads into a simple answer, what I’ve settled on is that it is a counter-cultural art festival. That pretty much takes in the dress code (Costume Art – slide show highlighted photos), the social structures (a self-creating system which guides the population of a city with a climax existence of about three days), the Mutant Vehicles and other conveyances (Art Cars to Art Bikes to EL wire painted night walkers), and the camps which range from purely functional and simple to every imaginable elaboration.

All of this comes together in a temporary city which has such things as clothing outlets, bicycle repair shops, a library, cinemas, cafes (grilled cheese at the Dust City Diner by the temple at dawn), bars and some frankly astonishing entertainment – roller disco, movie theaters, acrobatic troups, Dance Dance Immolation, Thunderdome. Continue reading

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truth is weirder than fiction

There is a list that gets emailed around every couple of years titled something like this:

How To Enjoy The Burning Man Experience From The Comfort Of Your Own Home

It contains far more truth than fantasy.

***Stack all your fans in one corner of the living room. Put on your most fabulous outfit. Turn the fans on full blast. Dump a vacuum cleaner bag in front of them***

Will I miss the blowing dust and heat this year? Probably I will, strange as that might sound to ‘normal’ people. The choice to take a year off is hard to stick with, and had the tickets not sold out, had the permitted limit of 50,000 participants not been reached, I’m pretty sure I’d have given in. And yes, as you’ll see if you read further in this blog, that’s exactly what I did. I bought a ticket four days before the gates opened.

It is also worth noting that cleaning your gear and the inside of your vehicle after Burning Man is much like cleaning your living room after you attack it with the fan-vacuum bag combo.

***Go to a museum. Find one of Salvador Dali’s more disturbing, but beautiful paintings. Climb inside it***
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burning man 2011 not-this-year

added live from the playa, Sept 1, 2011 – well a girl is entitled to change her mind

If you are looking for images from Burning Man 2011, try these:
Sunset Views from BRC 2011
Onplaya – Images from Burning Man 2011
The Spectrum of Burning Man Art
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After five years at Burning Man, I have decided it is time to take a break. Each year has been a different experience – all were wonderful, all had elements of sheer amazement. But with familiarity has come a lessening sense of appreciation, so this year I am staying home and letting the longing and excitement rebuild.

And since I will be home, wishing that I was back out on the playa after all, it seems a good time to look back. Continue reading

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Language

Some people have talent with languages. I am not one of them.

Traveling around Southeast Asia, from country to country, it is all I can do to produce a passable ‘hello’ and ‘thank you’ in the native tongue.  At the height of my abilities, I can understand a few numbers and can answer a question about my age in Thai or Khymer. The tiny part of my brain which stores the new glossary is overwritten whenever I cross borders. Continue reading

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Time Passages – a gallery of unplaced photos

To ease my impatience for new material between journeys, this post will feature some of the photos which are still awaiting their proper positions.Hmong girls

So here we go – Sapa, Vietnam, where one can spend weeks and never see the view.  Continue reading

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decompression

home in body, not yet in mind.  bed is stacked with books, about Burma, Borneo, Bali, Africa.  Biographies, political histories, travelogues, guides, maps.
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collapsible plastic zip bags – southeast asian luggage

One of the things I love about independent travel is the more compact form that life takes.  There is a sort of unwritten rule which suggests that, most of the time at least, one should be able to carry all one’s possessions.

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Soppong – market and villages

Lisu elder from Ban Nong Tong

My first of two mornings in the village turns out to be the one day each week that most of the local people come down from the surrounding hill villages. They come both to sell what they produce and to do their weekly shopping. The hill villages to the south are linked by a single looping road, unpaved according to the maps, but actually mostly paved throughout. There are similar routes to the north. That they are paved is fortunate as travel here is difficult enough on these steep hills. Continue reading

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Pangmapha-Soppong

The next town of any size west of Pai is about two hours of twists and hairpins farther. To get to Soppong, or Pangmapha as it is also known, one either gets a seat in a minivan heading for Mae Hong Son, or jumps on the local bus. The first bus comes through about 10:30 am and the other at about 1:30 pm. Well, that is the theory.

Throughout the rural areas, buses come by at vaguely predictable times. The locals will know the usual range:

If the bus is empty, it will be early.
If the bus is full, it will be late.
If the bus breaks, it will not come.
[sign by reception at Cave Lodge]

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