When I was planning this trip from home, the area I found most intriguing was a region little visited by tourists – the Ixil Triangle (Nebal-Chajul-Cotzal), and the region surrounding – where indigenous culture is still very much alive; an area in the center of the country, high in los Montañas Cuchumatanes. Continue reading
It is often said that Guatemala is a beautiful place, and that the most stunning sight in all of the country is Semuc Champey. It is also said that Lago Atitlan is the most beautiful lake in the world. I find that superlatives of this sort have a way of backfiring, creating expectations impossible to satisfy.
Río Cahabón just downstream from Semuc Champey
My initial view of Lago Atitlan was impressive, from high atop the contorted road which dropped from the Pan American Highway down to San Pedro La Laguna, by way of Santa Clara, San Pablo, and San Juan. But honestly, I’d never have called it the most beautiful lake I had ever seen. Still, in the two weeks I lived smack dab lakefront in San Pedro, I developed a deep appreciation of its moods and textures and was most sad to finally have to leave.
I was fortunate, in some strange way, to have had two quite deprecating comments about Semuc Champey before arriving there, Continue reading
Antigua, Guatemala
I am just back from grazing. Except on Sundays, three meals a day are included with my immersion Spanish homestay. So today, on my first full day here, and a Sunday, I did get a bit hungry before I was finally ready to wander out to find food. Just down the hill from here yesterday, I had seen a ceviche stand set up by a nearby park. Today I had the chance to try it.
Just up the footpath from my homestay in Colonia El Manchen, Antigua
ok, it is that time again – what bag will I be taking on this upcoming five week trip to Central America? What style, what capacity? Do I use one I have already or should I hunt up something different?
Are you really going to drag a wheelie bag down this street? Kratie, Cambodia
Typical steps to access dock, steps continue up to level of highest buildings - Nong Khiaw, Laos
Two years of using a convertible pack – one with both wheels and stowable straps and suspension – has taught me a few things about my particular needs. Continue reading
A forty five minute drive up a winding road southeast of Reno tops out at Virginia City. This atmospheric little town became the queen of Nevada in the 1860s after a major silver strike was made there in 1859. Of course I have been up there quite a few times, taking visitors for the pleasant drive and a view of old time Nevada.
Its population, from the 1880 census, was just under 11,000. In 2010, the number of residents was 855 which is a fairly large number in a state as thinly populated as this. Virginia City is a very vibrant and interesting place today, full of historic buildings, many crumbling, and many restored. The main street is amusingly, and perhaps embarrassingly, commercial, bearing a strong resemblance to Disneyland’s Main Street. Tourists happily explore its museums, bars, and gift shops.
The most impressive and special of the Burning Man art installations draw people to their neighborhoods. This year everyone wanted to see The Octopus Art Car . And everyone wanted to see Charon. Continue reading
Photographing the Art Cars during the day is easy. 
The night shots are much more challenging. The light levels on the playa tend to be quite low – you don’t generally need enough light to see, just enough to be seen. Continue reading
Mutant Vehicles, also called Art Cars, are Burning Man’s version of motorized transportation. 
They vary in size from the sweet little single seat cupcakes to colossal multi-story structures. Continue reading
A seven hour Exodus was my Burning Man Rite of Passage this year. 
Rather like your first full on playa dust storm, Exodus is one of the many challenges we rationalize as part of the Burning Man experience, to allow us acceptance with patience and grace.
So this year, for the first time, I threw judicious timing onto the playa wind and set off on Monday morning. Continue reading
There is so much to do once back in the Default World, but I will take a few moments from the ‘joys’ of deplayafication to recharge my visual memories. And yours.
Sunday was the last burn night, the night to experience the final moments of the Temple of Transition. This temple seemed to set a new bar among the population of the city. Continue reading
There is a huge Trojan Horse out on the Playa tonight. Hundreds of toga clad citizens of Black Rock City manned the ropes, first moving it in small steps from the Esplanade out to the gates of Troy. Then in one last monumental pull, the massive horse was moved to its final spot. Continue reading
Burning Man can really wear you out with the early mornings, late nights, dust and heat, and with soooo much to do. So it is not such a bad thing to shave a couple of days off at the beginning so you are able to last til the end.
I finally pulled into Black Rock City early on Wednesday morning, Event Day 3. Continue reading
Nearly time to roll, with about two hours of really beautiful desert to pass through to get Home.
From my house, I drive about 1/2 mile to the Pyramid Lake Highway, then straight north. Within fifteen minutes I have passed by all the housing developments and the land opens up into the widely spaced ranch properties of Palomino Valley. Then up alongside the Dogskin Mountains to Pyramid Lake. At the lower west corner of the lake, I hang a right and drive along the southern shore.
Very few people choose this less known route, so this portion of the drive is wonderfully peaceful and stunningly scenic. Continue reading
It is enough today to be quietly at home doing the preparation for this last minute Burning Man. Finding all the stored boxes, restocking, pulling together enough food and water and ice. Preparation the first year is the most complex and difficult, after that you will have the layers from the previous years to build on.
This morning the city populates. Continue reading
